Hana Skalická
Grafika
Astorga II
Pondělí,
25.06.2012

"Astorga je mestem, v nemz si davali sraz podnikatele, dobrodruzi a podnikavci vseho druhu", uvadi se v pruvodci. Je tomu tak proto, ze se zde sbihaji dve cesty - dve camina. Ta "nase" cesta s tzv. stribrnou cestou Via de la Plata vedouci z jihu ze Sevilly. Hm.. z moji oblibene Sevilly. Mozna to nebude nahoda, ze me zde muj zdravotni stav opet "uveznil". Podobne jako podnikatele, dobrodruzi a podnikavci vseho druhu jsme zde dnes mely sraz i ja se Zuzkou.

Vzhledem k tomu, ze noha se sice trochu zlepsila, ale stale na ni nemohu doslapnout, jsem se namisto cesty smer Rabanal del Camino v horach Montes de Leon vydala na prohlidku mestecka. Na to, jak je Astorga mala, je zde hned nekolik zajimavosti. Nejvice me zaujal episkopalni palac od Gaudiho. Vypada jako Drakuluv hrad (viz prilozene foto). Gaudi ho postavil pote, co puvodni biskupsky palac vyhorel. BiskupaJuan Bautista Grau Vallepinos si tenkrat vyslovne pral, aby novy biskupsky palac stavel prave Gaudi. Vzniklo tak jedno z mala jeho del mimo Gaudiho rodne Katalansko. Ackoli nejsem zadny znalec architektury, Gaudiho styl uz poznam. Palac je totiz postaven z uplne stejneho materialu jako Casa Botines v Leonu a je "nazdoben" vezickami a ruznymi jinymi odzdubkami. Vystavba palace probihala od roku 1889 do r. 1913. Od roku 1963 je v nem Museo de los Caminos neboli muzeum cest. Palac stoji hned vedle goticke katedraly Panny Marie. Ta je na tak male mesto celkem velka - pro lepsi predstavu o jeji velikosti Vam snad napovi udaj, ze se stavela od r. 1471 do konce osmnacteho stoleti. Chtela jsem se jit podivat dovnitr, ale jak Gaudiho palac, tak katedrala maji v pondeli zaviraci den. Zejmena u Gaudiho palace me to dost mrzi. No, pokud noha ani zitra nebude ok, mozna jeste budu mit sanci se do palace podivat.

Hned vedle katedraly je tzv. Celda de las Emparedadas (tj. "cela zazdenych"), kam mesto zaviralo zeny nevalne povesti. Stredoveci poutnici se u nich zastavovali a delili se s nimi o skyvu chleba. Kousek od cely zazdenych je jeste cela pro nebezpecne zivly - tzv. Ergastula, kam Rimane zavirali vsechny rebely. "Jeste, ze uz neni stredovek", pomyslela jsem si. Ze se jedna o tyto cely dnes poznate jenom podle kamene, na nemz je symbol zadonicich rukou.

Celkem me zaujaly i mestske hradby, z nichz je krasny vyhled daleko do kraje. Mesto je na kopci, takze jsou krasne videt i hory Montes de Leon, kudy vede camino dal a kudy doufam, ze taky pujdu. Na hradbach jsem se na chvili posadila na lavicku. Snad hodinu kolem lavicky behala pracovnice technickych sluzeb mesta, ktera zavlazovala prilehly travnik a dva stromy vedle lavicky. No, v tomto vedru neni divu, ze zalevala tak dlouho.

Jak si tak rozjimam na lavicce, prijde mi smska. Zuzka pise, ze je cca 4 km od Astorgy, a jestli dame obed. Jdu tedy Zuzce pomalu naproti - po mestskych hradbach kolem detskeho hriste na Plaza Mayor, tedy hlavni namesti, kde je i radnice a kudy vede camino. Na radnici je zajimave to, ze na jejim pruceli jsou dve pohybujici se figurky (vzhledem k velikosti by se mozna spise hodilo slovo: figuriny). Jsou to sosky drivejsich mistnich obyvatel tzv. Maragatos. Figurky maji i jmena: Juan Zancuda a Colasa, a jiz vice nez dveste let se staraji o odbijeni hodin. Nebyla bych ten spravny "danar", kdyby me nezaujalo, ze tyto hodiny byly financovany ze specialni dane z vina vypiteho v mistnich barech.

Poobedvame v hotelove restauraci, kde okusime vydatne menu del dia za prijatelnou cenu. Po obede se Zuzka vydala dal smer Santiago, kdezto ja zde jeste zustavam. Bohuzel nemohu jit s ni. Noha se zlepsuje, ale prilis pomalu. Asi jsem tomu nepomohla svou vcerejsi sedmikilometrovou "prochazkou" natezko.

Nechci uz dal popojizdet autobusem ani vlakem. Ze jsem prisla o tzv. paramo, tj. liduprazdnou krajinu, kde krome poutniku neni nikdo, jeste dokazu ozelet. Ale o dalsi useky cesty uz prijit nechci. Abych dostala compostelu, musim ujit alespon 100 km pred Santiagem. To bych mozna dala i v tomto stavu, ale za jakou cenu? Ne, takhle to nechci. Je neco uplne jineho jit zdravy a uzivat si cestu oproti tomu, kdyz jdete s vymknutou nohou a zanetem slach a trpite pri kazdem kroku. Pokud nepujde jit, tak holt ted nepujdu a dojdu to treba za 2 mesice. Je to sice uz "jen" 9 - 10 dni cesty, ale porad neco kolem 300 km.

Cely den jsem dnes premyslela, co dal. Neni to vubec lehke rozhodovani. Fakta jsou takova, ze jelikoz mam letenku na sobotu 7.7., musim odtud vyrazit nejdele ve stredu, abych stihla dojit do Santiaga. Opravdu doufam, ze to pujde. A pokud ne? Nevim. Nejspis bych Camino de Santiago prerusila do doby dalsi dovolene. Neboli v ceste bych pokracovala, az se uzdravim a budu mit volno (napr. letos na podzim). Credencial mi plati 2 roky, takze z tohoto pohledu mam casu dost.

Zdenda mi pise, ze: "Není přece cílem cesty dojít do cíle cesty. Když jsem tam došel, myslím k majáku, měl jsem chuť jít dál. Nešlo to, mohl jsem se jen otočit a jít zpátky. Sama jsi už potkala tolik lidí, co jdou na etapy. Já vím, oni s tím počítali. Každý všední den v práci jsi taky na cestě. Akorát pro tebe není tak nová, zajímavá, bezstarostná nebo bůhvíjaká jiná."

Hm... ma pravdu. Vzhledem k tomu, ze mam ted "zdravotni krizi", kterou musim resit, dozvidam se toho o sobe mnohem vic, nez kdyby vsechno slo hladce. A ac opravdu nemam radost z toho, ze mozna v Astorze budu "uveznena" i zitra a ze camino budu muset prerusit, snazim se udrzet si optimismus v nadeji lepsich zitrku. Vzdyt na dne je preci taky dobre: "Aspon mam od ceho se odrazit". Ze by snad tohle byl muj cil cesty?

Gaudiho palác (čelní pohled)
Na městských hradbách s Montes de Leon v pozadí
Gaudiho palác a katedrála z parku de El Melgar
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