Hana Skalická
Grafika
Burgos II aneb Píseň o Cidovi
Sobota,
16.06.2012

Historicke krasy Burgosu nas uchvatily natolik, ze jsme se rozhodly zde jeste den zustat. Vcera jsme totiz dorazily pozdeji, resp. v dobe, kdy katedrala uz byla zavrena. A projit Burgosem a nenavstivit katedralu, to by byl hrich, i prestoze nejsme verici. Ubytovani v hotelu slo bez problemu prodlouzit (za tyden by to uz asi bylo horsi, protoze se tu kona fiesta spojena s bycimi zapasy), tak jsme si udelaly odpocinkovy den.

Po vcerejsim veceru, kdy jsme se od rozveselenych ulic Burgosu dlouho nemohly odtrhnout, jsme si rano trosku (asi do 9 h) prispaly. Chvili jsme uvazovaly, jestli jit do katedraly a pak hned pokracovat smer Santiago, nebo jit do katedraly a zbytek dne stravit v Burgosu. Druha moznost zvitezila i proto, ze tu jezdi turisticky vlacek, kterym jsem proste musela jet, jenze vecer jsem se na nocni jizdu uz nedostala, protoze bylo vyprodano.

Po ranni vynikajici snidani v jedne z cafeterii na promenade u ricky Arlanzon jsme tedy zamirily do katedraly. Potesilo nas, ze peregrinos plati jen polovicni vstupne (tj. 3,50 EUR). Katedrala je obrovska a o to vic cloveka zamrazi, kdyz vidi, ze je zde propracovany kazdy detail. Zajimalo by me, jak dlouho ji staveli. To jsem se z audio guida nedozvedela. Vim jen, ze zakladni kamen polozili 20. 7. 1221 kral Ferdinand III a biskup Mauricio. Vzhledem k tomu, ze jsme v katedrale videly tolik ruznych stylu (gotika, baroko), je mozne, ze to staveli nekolik staleti?

V katedrale jsme stravily cca 2 h. Hned po prichodu dovnitr jsme videly svatbu. Hm, mit svatbu v jedne z nejhezcich gotickych katedral ve Spanelsku, to je tedy neco. Svatby jsme dnes videly jeste dalsi 2 a vsechny nevesty a zenichove byli opet v mem veku. Je to jejich prvni nebo druha svatba?, vrtalo mi hlavou. V katedrale byla vsak jen jedna ze svateb, ostatni byly v prilehlych kostelech San Nicolas a San Esteban. Vsechny svatby pusobily famozne, u jedne svatebcane cele auto novomanzelu polepili takovymi temi listecky, jimiz ja mam v praci polepenou celou obrazovku od pocitace kolem dokola, abych na neco nezapomnela. Kdyz jsme pak sly zpet do hotelu, vsimly jsme si obchodu Pronovias, tedy obchodu, z nejz jsem svatebni saty mela i ja, tudiz si neslo nevzpomenout na svatbu vlastni.

Po obede v restauraci s krasnym vyhledem na katedralu i vlacek jsme se sly projit a najednou bylo 5 h odpoledne a nam zbyvala jen hodina do odjezdu vlacku. Listky na vlacek jsme si koupily jeste pred navstevou katedraly, aby nam je zase nevyprodali.

Vlacek nas vozil skoro hodinu po historickem centru a bylo fajn, ze to bylo i s vykladem ve spanelstine, francouzstine a anglictine, takze jsme se mohla kochat krasami Burgosu i ja se svou bidnou spanelstinou.

Vzpominam, jak jsme v roce 1992 byli cela rodina v Nemecku. Tata se ucil u strejdy v Essenu nemcinu a ja s brachou a mamkou jsme bydleli skoro mesic ve vesnici Rhede u nemecko-holandskych hranic, kam za nami tata vzdy na vikend jezdil (jindy nesmel mluvit cesky, aby mu nemcina sla rychleji do hlavy). Delali jsme s mamkou ruzne vylety a jeden byl i do nejakeho holandskeho mestecka, na jehoz nazev si ted nevzpomenu, kde taky jezdil turisticky vlacek. Chteli jsme s nim s brachou jet, tak nas do nej mamka vzala. Nikdo z nas ale neumel holandsky a tedy nerozumel vykladu pruvodce, tudiz jsme byli poradne vydeseni, kdyz s nami vlacek uhanel pryc z mesta nekam do poli. Snazila jsem se tenkrat si vsi silou zapamatovat cestu, abychom se pak mohli dostat zpet k autu. Pesi turistiky mezi poli tenkrat nebylo potreba, protoze vlacek nas odvezl do nejake syrarny, kde nam ukazovali vyrobu syra, a pak nas zase zavezl zpet do mestecka k autu. Uff. Tehdy jsme nemecko-holandskou hranici brazdili Skodou Favorit . Bylo to davno pred vstupem do EU a Schengenu a nikdo nas na techto hranicich nekontroloval. Je mozne, ze uz je to 20 let?

No ale zpet do Burgosu. V katedrale je pochovan i legendarni bojovnik Cid se svou zenou Jimennou. Cida asi znate z nejstarsiho dochovaneho spanelskeho eposu Pisen o Cidovi. Vlackem jsme tentokrat nejeli do syrarny, ale vozil nas po historickem centru Burgosu i kolem zbytku starych hradebnich zdi. Na Plaza Espana me prekvapilo, ze kazde Plaza Espana, ktere jsem ve Spanelsku videla, je ve tvaru kruhu.

Ted uz jsme v nasem hotelovem pokoji, odkud mame obrovskym sklenenym vyklenkem vyhled na Plaza del Alonso Martinez, kde to opet zije. Tentokrat ale jdeme spat, abychom zitra mely dost sil na dalsi etapu. Burgos ale urcite stoji za navstevu, takze pokud o tom uvazujete, nevahejte a prijedte sem.

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