Hana Skalická
Grafika
Burgos
Pátek,
15.06.2012
314 km

Dnesek byl etapou velkych rozdilu. Zpocatku jsme jeste prochazely horami Montes de Oca, abychom pote skoro pulku dnesni etapy prochazely prumyslovymi predmestimi Burgosu a pak samotnym mestem. Z historicke casti mesta se taji dech, nicmene touto casti dnesni etapa nevedla. Nez jsme dosly az sem, tj. do hotelu Norte y Londres v historickem centru mesta, musely jsme nejprve prekonat neprijemnych skoro 14 km prumyslovou zonou a predmestimi. Spousta poutniku tuto cast etapy jezdi autobusem. I ja jsem pri pohledu na prumyslovou zonu mela nutkani to tak udelat. Predstavte si, ze byste se meli dostat z Cerneho Mostu pres Vysocany do historickeho centra Prahy. Sli byste to pesky nebo jeli metrem? Ja jsem si rekla, ze pokud u me zastavi autobus - MHD, svezu se. Autobus u me zastavil az v momente, kdy uz historicke centrum bylo doslova nadohled, takze i proto jsem dosla az sem pouze po svych.

Po vcerejsi veceri s Francouzkami jsme rano nedokazaly vstat, takze jsme ze San Juan de Ortega vyrazily az po devate. Jeste nez jsme opustily brany vesnice, vyrazily jsme na prohlidku tamniho vyhlaseneho klastera. Hezky, ale strohy styl. Podobne jako v Saint Jean Pied de Port jsem si zapalila svicku a myslela pritom na zatim nesplnena prani.

Slunce se na nas divalo ze zcela jasne oblohy, tudiz jsme obe vysly na lehko - jen v kratasech a tricku. Foukal vsak tak studeny vitr, ze jsme se postupne oblekly do dlouhych kalhot i bund s kapucou, jako kdybychom si na sebe braly skafandr proti vetru. Inu, neuvedomily jsme si, ze jsme stale v srdci Husich hor v nadmorske vysce pres 1 000 metru. I prestoze nas zpocatku cekalo klesani do vesnicky Ages, prilis se neoteplilo. Zhruba po 6 km jsme si daly snidani ve vesnici Atapuerca, cehoz jsme v naslednem stoupani na horu Montagrande (1 078 m.n.m) litovaly, nebot s plnym zaludkem se tezko podavaji narocnejsi fyzicke vykony. Pri stoupani jsme postupne odhazovaly casti naseho skafandru , takze na vrcholku hory jsme stanuly v porovnani s oblecenim v nasem vychozim bode jak princezna Kolobezka - tj. tak nejak napul oblecene neoblecene.

Na vrcholu Montagrande jsem mela moznost vyzkouset si i svoji svedstinu, nebot jsme tam potkali Dana, ktery je napul Sved. Zcela zaskocena moznosti popovidat si se skoro Svedem jsem se zmohla pouze na hej da a radeji prepnula do anglictiny. Ach jo, jak clovek jazyk nepouziva, jen a jen ho zapomina. Musim s tim po navratu domu neco udelat.

Nasledoval sestup z hor do mensich utulnych vesnicek. Kdyz jsme dosly do Orbaneja-Riopico, chtely jsme se pred zaverecnou etapou, o niz jsme vedely, ze nebude prijemna (silnice, dalnice, prumyslova zona), trochu posilnit, k cemuz zcela jasne vyzyval mistni bar. Bar plny muzu - domorodcu, po nasem prichodu zcela utichl a vsichni na nas zirali, jako kdyby nikdy nic takoveho nevideli. Dali jsme si zumo de melocoton a neustale jsme citily zvedave pohledy tamnich obyvatel, a to az do doby, dokud jsme neodesly. Skoda, ze takova situace nejde zachytit fotoaparatem, bylo to jak v Tenkrat na zapade.

Pote nas cekalo skoro 14 neprijemnych kilometru. Nejdriv po silnici kolem letiste, tudiz se nam Burgos nejdrive priblizoval a pak zase vzdaloval, jak jsme tak krouzili kolem letistni plochy. Samozrejme jsem mela nutkani jit rovne letiste neletiste, ale plot se dvema radami ostnatych dratu me od toho odradil. Navic opet strasne foukalo, nebylo kam se pred vetrem schovat. Kdyz jsme prochazely kolem posledni vesnice pred Burgosem (Villafria), sedly jsme si do zavetri nekomu na schody a snedly svacinu, kterou nam rano v Atapuerce udelaly v baru. Celozrnna bageta se spanelskou sunkou a syrem. Mnam mnam.

Po prekonani tech poslednich neprijemnych kilometru se nam Buegos odmenil tim ze jsme narazily na moc pekny hotel. Je sice starsi, ale vypada to tu jako na zamku, pritom cena je stejna jako vcera za mnohem obycejneji vyhlizejici pokoj v San Juan de Ortega. Bydlime na jednom z namesticek v historicke casti Burgosu, kde jak vidime i slysime, to poradne zije (inu patecni vecer ve Spanelsku). Vetsi prohlidku historickeho centra vcetne vnitrku proslule katedraly nechame na zitra.

Jak jsme tak chodily burgosskymi ulickami, najednou nam nekdo zaklepal na rameno. Otocily jsme se a mely jsme ohromnou radost: byly to nase zname Francouzky, se kterymi jsme vcera vecerely a ktere nam darovaly super knizku : Mnam, mnam, haji. Ony tu dnes konci a zitra leti zpet do Francie. Jedna z nich se stara o svou 97 letou matku a nemuze ji nechavat dlouho samotnou. Rikaly nam, ze nejhezci cast camina je podle jejich nazoru ve Francii za Le Puy - tak mame aspon typ na priste. Vypily jsme spolecne sangriu a s ocekavanim dalsich budoucich setkani pri louceni zamackly nejednu slzu.

Burgos
Matagrande
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