Hana Skalická
Grafika
San Juan de Ortega
Čtvrtek,
14.06.2012
284 km

V albergue Cuatro Cantones se nakonec spalo docela dobre, protoze pouze spanelsky mluvici spravce po me vydatne gestikulaci pochopil, ze nam je frio, nacez se mu podarilo zavrit okno nad moji posteli, takze jsem se nemusela bat, ze me probudi dest. I kdyz v mistnosti byla zima, zjistila jsem, ze mohu verit memu spacaku (resp. spacaku meho manzela - diky, Peto), v nemz se podle etiket pohodlne spi do cca +5 stupnu Celsia.

Rano jsme vyrazily brzy po osme. Na nas celkem casne, avsak jako posledni z albergue. Ostatne tak je tomu vzdy :-) Ani jedna z nas nepatri mezi ranni ptacata a vstavani peregrinos mezi patou a sestou hodinou opravdu nechapeme. Zpocatku na nasi dnesni etapu pasovala pisnicka od Mig 21: "Cestou necestou, polem nepolem, jedu za Tebou, se svym malotraktorem ... drn drn drn dr dr drn drn ...", protoze jsme opet sly mezi poli a videly spoustu zemedelcu, jak si jedou na svych traktorech obhospodarovat svoje usedlosti. My jsme vsak nejely ani na traktoru ani nicem jinem, tapaly jsme pekne po svych. A to i pres nase mensi ci vetsi bolistky.

Po snidani ve vesnicce Villambistia v Albergue San Roque, kam jsme to mely z Belorada cca 7 km, se krajina zacala opet trochu vlnit a i kdyz cesta stale vedla podle stare zname sinice N-120, uz jsme ji misty nevidely, ba dokonce ani neslysely. V prvnim stoupani za vesnici jsme dosly dva starsi anglicky mluvici manzele, podle prizvuku asi Anglicany. Oba meli celkem velke poutnicke batohy, takze nas prekvapilo, ze pan nesl v ruce i obrovskou, ale opravdu obrovskou igelitku. Podle stylu jeho chuze bylo znat, ze je tezka. Vybavila se nam asociace s lidmi z Uruguaye, ktere jsme potkaly za Los Arcos a kteri meli jenom igelitku. Ale tito meli jak batohy, tak velkou igelitku. "Proboha, co v ni maji?", rikame si se Zuzkou. "Obed", odpovidaji na nasi otazku. Hm... tak klobouk dolu pred tim panem, to my si obed se Zuzkou radsi koupime, nez spolu s baglem tahat takhle tezkou tasku.

Pocasi se zmenilo o 180 stupnu, je krasne jasno, slunecno a teplo, takze jsme si dnes obe poprve mohly obleknout uplne kratke kratasy na cely den. Kdyz jsme dosly do vesnicky Villafranca Montes de Oca, mnoho poutniku se rozhodlo popojet zbyvajicich 36 km do Burgosu autobusem, ze pry tato cast trasy neni moc hezka a ze usetreny cas radeji vyuziji na prohlidku pamatek. Take jsme chvilku vahaly, nicmene tak spatne, abychom musely jet autobusem nam preci jen neni, tedy jsme se vydaly smer Montes de Oca, neboli do Husich hor. A hory se nam za to odmenily. Tento zaverecny 12 km usek dnesni etapy byl jeden z nejhezcich, ktere jsme sly (hned po Pyrenejich). Hory jsou holt hory.

Ivosi, i kdyz stopovat by tu asi nebylo tezke - tedy soude podle toho, jak na nas kamionaci troubi kdyz jdeme po Caminu podle silnice, podvadet tentokrat nebudu :-) Ale mas pravdu, tapky me opravdu boli.

Za vesnici Villafranca Montes de Oca, kde jsme mimochodem videly moc hezky hotel, ale na to, abychom se v nem ubytovaly, byl prilis blizko naseho dnesniho vychoziho bodu, nas cekalo prudsi asi kilometrove stoupani do zalesnenych hor. Vystoupaly jsme do sedla Alto de la Pedraja (1 150 m.n.m.), odkud prikladame fotku. Bylo to moc fajn. Hlavne, ze poucena zkusenosti Toma z filmu The Way vzdycky rikam Zuzce: "Nedavej si batoh na zidku, nebo Ti spadne", sama jsem si batoh na zidku, na ktere jsme se pote fotily, postavila. Zafoukal vitr a batoh samozrejme spadl a samozrejme na spatnou stranu, kde byl prudsi sraz dolu. Nastesti se nekutalel az dolu, ale zastavil se o nejake rosti cestou. Uff...

V pruvodci ctu, ze usek v Montes de Oca drive patril k velmi nebezpecnym, nebot zde radili loupeznici, dalo se tu snadno zabloudit a casto hrozila smrt hladem. Nam dnes hrozila spis smrt zizni. Slunce dnes odpoledne palilo o sto sest a my jsme ve stoupani skoro vsechnu vodu vypily. Tentokrat nebylo ani kde doplnovat, az v San Juan de Ortega, kam jsme kolem pul pate dorazily. Je to minivesnicka s obrovskym klasterem a asi tremi domy vedle. V jednom z nich jsme videly ceduli: "Habitation dobles con baño", cemuz jsme dnes neodolaly - a to i proto, ze se po vcerejsi pouze studene tekouci vode v albergue tesime na teplou sprchu.

Vecerely jsme v baru Marcela, o kterem jsme si v pruvodci precetly, ze je zde velmi pratelska obsluha. O opravdu muzeme potvrdit (tedy kdyz pominu dedu, kterej nam prodal 0,5 l vody za jedno Euro hned po prichodu, kdy jsme byly totalne vyprahle a kdy se nam zdalo, ze na tom jenom poradne rejzuje). U vecere vsak obsluhoval jeho syn a bylo to uplne neco jineho! U stolu jsme sedely se dvema Francouzkami, se kterymi jsme vecerely uz v Roncesvalles, a ktere cestou porad potkavame. Az dnes jsme se ale dozvedely, ze jedna je profesorka matematiky a fyziky a druha softwarova inzenyrka. Camino jdou uz z Le Puy, ale ne v kuse - jdou to uz treti rok. Zitra konci v Burgosu, aby priste mohly odtud pokracovat. Skoda. Jsou moc fajn. Se softwarovou inzenyrkou jsme si vzajemne ukazovaly puchyre. Na kazdem prstu mela naplast proti puchyrum jako prevenci. Hm, je fakt dukladna. Na muj krvavy puchyr mi rekla, ze si mysli, ze to je infected a ze bych ho mela propichnout. Je fakt, ze vcerejsi "operace" mi trochu pomohla, respektive dnes jsem bolave puchyre rozchazela rychleji nez vcera, ale ted uz na to zase nemohu doslapnout. Nejspis tedy po veceri nastane operace cislo dve.

S Francouzkami jsme si vymenily adresy, pozveme je na pivo az budou v Praze. My zase muzeme prijet do Francie. Na rozloucenou nam daly knizku: "Miam Miam Dodo" - cesky by to bylo "Mnam mnam haji", tj. nejlepsi pruvodce po caminu, jakeho jsme kdy videly. Ze to pry maji dvakrat a tu druhou ted nebudou potrebovat. Je zde detailni popis trasy vcetne toho, kde se najist a kde (a s kym :-)) se vyspat. Holt jsou to zkusene damy. Jejich pruvodce si bereme k srdci a jdeme na kute.

Montes de Oca
S Francouzkami po večeři
Villafranca Montes de Oca
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