Hana Skalická
Grafika
Logroño II aneb pokračující Hemingwayova Fiesta a nabídka k sňatku
Neděle,
10.06.2012

Po probuzeni se se Zuzkou obe citime mnohem lepe nez vcera, nicmene jestli to je na dnesni 31 kilometrovou etapu, vahame. Ja mam opuchle nohy od kotniku dolu. Puchyre, ktere jsem si vecer propichla, se udelaly znovu, Zuzku boli achilovka. Podle predpovedi pocasi ma dnes od 11 do 17 h prset. Zatim ale neprsi. Kdyby prselo, je to jasne, zustavame v Logroñu i dnes. Takto vahame. Nakonec zvolime rozumnejsi variantu, tj. zustat tu do zitrka. Doufame, ze kdyz nechame nase tela odpocinout, nebudou nam tricetikilometrove etapy pozdeji cinit zadne problemy. Kdybychom dnes pokracovaly, asi bychom to usly, ale mohly bychom si take uhnat zanet slach nebo neco podobneho a potom bychom se do Santiaga belhaly hlemyzdim tempem, pokud vubec.

Vyrazime si prohlednout mesto, do lekarny (Zuzka si kupuje masticku na achilovky, ja naplasti na puchyre) a neco nakoupit. Jak tak prochazime mestem, vidime pripravy na nejakou slavnost. Ze by tu dnes byla fiesta? Ano, opravdu tu je. Stavi se stany, zacinaji se varit nejruznejsi pokrmy, zdobi se ulice. Jdeme do Carefouru neco nakoupit. Mame docela hlad, takze si sedame v parku na lavicku, jime bagety a pijeme kefir, protoze zejmena ja potrebuju vapnik. Najednou slysime silne priblizujici se troubeni, co to je? Ze by dalsi svatba? Ne, tentokrat sraz motorkaru. Jejich pelotonu razi cestu dopravni policie na motocyklech, ktera cely konvoj motorkaru take uzavira. To by se libilo Petovi, rikam si a bezim motorkare na nejruznejsich strojich vyfotit.

Svacime na lavicce dal, kdyz v tom k nam pristoupi nejaky deda, ktery si s nami chce povidat. Moc mu nerozumime. On to ale nevzdava. Pta se nas, kolik nam je. Kdyz mu to rekneme, mavne rukou, jako ze to nic neni, protoze jemu je 90. Hm, na to vypada opravdu velmi dobre. Dava nam kazde karamelku. Asi se mu libime. Neumi bohuzel zadny jiny jazyk nez spanelstinu, a ani jedna z nas spanelsky moc neumi. Nevim, proc zrovna ted me napadaji slovicka z nemciny nebo svedstiny, spanelstina se bohuzel moc nedostavuje. "Jeste, ze verbalni komunikace tvori jen 20% a na neverbalni tedy zbyva celych 80%", vzpominam na jednu knihu o psychologii, kterou jsem kdysi cetla. Mluvim na dedu anglicko-nemecko-svedsky. "To na nej muzes rovnou mluvit cesky, stejne Ti nerozumi", rika Zuzka. "Hm, to je fakt." Jeste, ze existuje google translator.

"Es usted casado?", pta se me deda. Zuzka pochopi jako prvni, na co se me pta, a odpovida za me, ze jsem vdana. Dalsi otazka dedy: "Dónde está tu marido?" "Muj manzel je v Ceske republice, jsem ted peregrina a jdu do Santiago de Compostela", soukam ze sebe trochu spanelsky za vydatne pomoci nonverbalni komunikace. Deda nechape, jaktoze tu muj manzel neni se mnou. Chyta me za tvaricky, ukazuje na moje pihy na obliceji (ktere ja osobne bych nejradsi zrusila - asi jako kdyz mi jednou jeden Tunisan na plazi rekl, ze jsem fakt pekna, ale at si jdu umyt oblicej, ze ty tecky nejsou hezky), ale dedovi se to evidentne libi. Vypravi a vypravi, rozumime vsak jen zlomky. Pochopily jsme, ze jeho zena mu umrela pred 5 lety, ze ma dve deti a za chvili jde k dceri, ktere je 55 let, na obed. Chyta me za ruku, abych s nim sla na kavu. Zdvorile odmitam. Pak zacne rikat neco o penezich. Chvili se Zuzkou nechapeme. Ze by chtel penize? To se nam nezda, ale pro jistotu vytahujeme par Euro a nabizime mu je. On je odmita a ted uz nam doslo, co chce. Zacal mluvit o pivu a ukazuje na nedaleky bar. Aha, zve nas na pivo. Ukazuje svoji penezenku, ze zaplati. Je to moc sympaticky pan, libi se nam, a trochu nam je lito ho tam jen tak nechat. Jdeme s nim tedy na pivo do baru na namesti. Objedna nam dve piva, sam si neda nic. Ptame se, proc si on nedal nic. Rika, ze rad pije vevnitr. My sedime venku na zahradce, vevnitr bylo plno. On na zahradce pit nechce, uvnitr pry chutna lip. Konverzace za pomoci google translator pokracuje. "Kdybys nemela manzela, vzala by sis me?", rika mi. Ja se na nej udivene divam. On se zamilovane usmiva a za chvili uz chce odpoved: "Así que, sí o no?". Premyslim, co mu odpovedet. Nahlas se radim se Zuzkou (on stejne nerozumi), ze bych mu rekla ano, aby mel radost. Je mu preci jen 90, kdo vi, kolik mu jeste zbyva, je moc fajn, chci ho potesit. Zuzka mi vsak radi, abych to nedelala, ze pak bychom se ho uz nezbavily. Odpovidam tedy, ze: "Ne, dekuji, nejde to, mam manzela." On me zase chyti za tvaricku, pohladi po vlasech, po ruce a kdyz odmitneme i pozvani na obed k jeho dceri, louci se a odchazi. Divam se za nim a premyslim, kolik toho asi v zivote prozil. A kolik toho proziju ja? A co me ceka? Jsem zase nejak namekko.

Najednou uvidime pruvod lidi, spousta malych holcicek v druzickovskych satickach, za nimi dospeli. Ze by zase svatba? Ne, to je nabozensky pruvod, ktery k fieste take patri. Kona se tu fiesta San Bernabé - souvisi s oblezenim mesta Francouzi v roce 1521. Za chvili spatrime i nabozensky pruvod. Zuzce se zda masivni. Ano, je masivni, ale ze Sevilly znam pruvody jeste mnohem vetsi. Ke konci pruvodu vezou nositka asi s pannou Marii a kolem nich jdou jeptisky zpivajici nabozenske pisne. Jejich zpev je proklate cisty a ma velkou silu, az me z toho mrazi. Popojdeme dal a tam se kona koncert jiz nikoli nabozenskych pisni, ale pisni rekla bych poradne od podlahy, ze bych si nejradsi sla zatancovat. Musime ale dnes odpocivat, abychom zitra mohly vporadku dal, takze jdeme do hotelu na siestu, abychom do rozjasanych ulic mesta Logroño mohly vyrazit pozdeji.

Siestu jsme stravily v perlickove koupeli v nasem hotelu (kdyz uz je to v cene, byl by hrich toho nevyuzit :-)). Tento hotel je moc pekny a pritom za rozumnou cenu, mohu jen doporucit. Pocasi venku se trochu zkazilo, fouka studeny vitr, ale neprsi. Vyrazime tedy do ulic a opet nadsene sledujeme, jak se Spanele umi radovat. To je tedy neco. Po shlednuti dalsiho pruvodu, kde oslavuji, ze Logroña je soucasti provincie La Rioja (zapomnela jsem zminit, ze vcera jsme cestou z Los Arcos, ktere patri do provincie Navarra, prekrocily hranice a nyni jsme a par dni budeme prave v provincii La Rioja), nase kroky miri opet do lekarny. Zde dokupujeme dalsi zdravotni pomucky vcetne kremu na spaleniny. Ackoli jsem se snazila se mazat kremem na opalovani, zapomnela jsem na usi a lytka, a ta se mi ted poradne zapaluji. Vypada to dost srandovne, jsme opalene presne podle kalhot trictvrtaku. Budu si muset zitra vzit nejake kratsi kalhoty, aby se to trochu srovnalo.

Zitra nas ceka cca 31 km do Najery. Pruvodce rika, ze skoro cela cesta je po asfaltu, takze na moje bolave kotniky nic moc. Doufame jen, ze nam dnesni fiesta pomohla natolik, ze to zitra bez vetsich potizi zvladneme.

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