Hana Skalická
Grafika
Logroño I
Sobota,
09.06.2012
179 km

Pred odchodem ze zatim nejhezci albergue, kterou jsme videly (Albergue de la Fuente Case de Austria) jsme se daly do reci s hospitalerem (spravcem albergue). Je to sympaticky starsi pan z Rakouska, dobrovolnik. Je tu jen na 14 dni, takze mame opravdu stesti, ze jsme narazily prave na nej. Rika nam, ze on francouzskou cestu, kterou jdeme my, jel pouze na kole. Jeho manzelka jde prave Camino de Santiago ze Svycarska! A on tu pomaha poutnikum jako jsme my vse zvladnout. Byl na nas opravdu hodny. Nejen proto, ze po nas chtel jen 7 EUR misto 10 EUR (10 se platilo za pokoj do 4 osob a my jsme tam byly jen 2, respektive potom k nam na pokoj prisel jeden pan, ktery prave zaplatil 10 za pokoj pro 4, ale nekdo tam hrozne chrapal tak chtel k nam). Vecer mi chodil rikat, jak se vyviji fotbalove utkani CR - Rusko (ja vim, totalni debakl), povidali jsme si o Praze, o Caminu a vubec o vsem moznem. Pockal se mnou ve spolecenske mistnosti, kde jsem psala blog o vcerejsi etape i presto, ze uz bylo po vecerce (nesmejte se, v albergues skutecne funguji vecerky, aby mohli poutnici nerusene spat, vetsinou ve 22 h). Rano nam jeste nasel predpoved pocasi. Byl tak mily, ze jsem ho nejen pochvalila a podekovala mu za vsechno, ale i ho pozadala, jestli se s nim muzu vyfotit. Jemu pritom uplne zvhly oci od slz a me vzapeti taky. Vymenili jsme si emaily, abych mu fotku mohla poslat. Skoda, ze Vam ji na web dat nemuzu (mam ji na fotaku a nemam tu kabel).

Vyzbrojene vlastnorucne pripravenou svacinou vyrazime z Los Arcos smerem k vesnici Sansol. Povrch cesty, po ktere jdeme, plne vystihuji slova klasicke krylovky Morituri te salutant: "Cesta je prach a sterk a udusana hlina ...", kterou si zpivame do kroku. Po chvili pred sebou spatrime tri osoby, ktere nesou vlajku (nevidime, co na ni maji), ale zarazi nas, ze dva z nich jdou jen s nakupni taskou zavesenou pres obe ramena jako batoh (asi jako kdybyste si ruce nasoukali do popruhu vetsi modre tasky Ikea), pouze jedna z osob ma batoh. Poutnici nebo bezdomovci? Mame trochu strach. Kdyz je mijime, vesele nas zdravi a anglicky se ptaji, odkud jsme. Otazku tedy opetujeme a dozvidame se, ze jeden z nich je z USA a dva jsou z Uruguaye. Nejsou nam zase tak sympaticti, tak pospichame dal a pritom slysime, jak se bavi o Cesku a Slovensku a o tom, jak jsme se rozdelili. Hm..., tak Ti se nezdali. Koho by napadlo, ze toho budou tolik vedet.

Asi po 6 km zastavujeme u nizsi zidky, abychom se nasnidaly. Vyse uvedena trojka Americanu (at severnich, ci jiznich) dela totez, ale drzi si od nas uctyhodnou vzdalenost cca 15 metru. Posilnene vynikajicimi domacimi zakusky, ktere jsme si koupily vecer v Los Arcos, prichazime do vesnicky Sansol. Je to mensi vesnicka ma strediskova nez Los Arcos, ovsem s krasnym vyhledem do kraje a kvetinami vyzdobenym kostelem a kostelnimi schody. Zde se fotime a fotku prikladame.

Nasleduje prudsi klesani do Torres del Rio. Hezka vesnice, kde prochazime kolem nekolika albergues, baru a dokonce hotelu s bazenem. Nicmene jelikoz jsme pauzu meli pred chvili na zidce mezi poli, nezastavujeme se a stoupame do kopce nad vesnici. Je to prevyseni z 445 m.n.m. do 558 m.n.m. Pri ceste potkavame Itala, se kterym jsme se nekolikrat mijely uz vcera a vzapeti kluka z USA, se kterym taky jdeme uz druhy den zhruba stejnym tempem. Bohuzel, vetsina tech, se kterymi jsme v minulych dnech sly, je nyni o den pozadu (Finka Bettina, polska rodina, korejska doktorka). Tim, ze jsme sly vcera skoro 40 a predevcirem o 10 km vic nez je ve vetsine pruvodcu, dostaly jsme se o den napred. Jeste s nami jde i nemecky Turek, ktereho jsme take poprve videly v penzionu El Peregrino, kde me okradly. Resp. nejde s nami, ale vcera i predpredevcirem spal ve stejne albergue jako my. Kdyz jsem sla vcera z nakupu, slysela jsem, jak nejake slecne septa: "To je ta, co ji v Larrasone okradli". Hm.. tak bud to fakt neudelal a nebo je to dobry herec.

Ackoli mame v nohach dnes jen cca 15 km, zacina nas vse silne bolet. Nechapeme, jak je to mozne, vzdyt dnes jdeme sesty den, a to bychom uz toto mely mit za sebou (skoro vsichni tvrdi, ze krize prijde 3 - 5 den). My jsme treti az paty den sly krasne z lehka, ale dnes mame krizi. O co hur se citime fyzicky, o to lepe se citime psychicky. Mame neustale zachvaty smichu, u nichz jsme se nekolikrat musely sednout - lehnout na zem, protoze ve stoje bychom to proste neustaly. Bohuzel se s nami nezasmejete, protoze nase dnesni historky nejsou publikovatelne.

Jdeme lesem, kdyz nahle za sebou spatrime hadejte koho - bludneho Holandana Berta. Ba ne, neni to bludny Holandan, je to spis Holandan s jasnym cilem - Logroño. Jde opet velmi velmi rychle. Dochazi nas a divi se, ze "tak brzy" (tj. asi 15 km pred Logroñem), ze si pry myslel, ze nas uvidi az v Logroñu. No jo, nemame dnes vcerejsi rychlotempo. Chvili s Bertem jdeme. Po drsnejsim stoupani vsak uz nemame silu jeho tempo drzet (on skutecne bezi a jak vidi kopec, zakrici: "Ja si to uzivam, my v Holandsku nemame zadne kopce, tak jak nejaky vidim, mam takovou radost, ze ho musim hned vybehnout"). Bert tedy ziskava lehky naskok (a to se fakt snazim ho dohnat, ale dnes to proste nejde) a nahore na kopci chce svacit. Ani ja, ani Zuzka, po takto narocnem fyzickem vykonu nemame silu jist, takze jdeme dal s tim, ze nas dojde. Asi po 4 km uz ale mame hlad i my, ale take nas dost boli nohy, tak si sedame na odpocivadlo a svacime. Ja si poprve na teto ceste sundavam boty i ponozky, protoze chodidla tak pali, ze skoro nejde jit dal. Navic se mi udelaly dva obri puchyre, ze na prave chodidlo nemuzu doslapnout. V tom prichazi Bert, trochu prekvapeny, ze svacime, kdyz jsme se predtim domlouvaly, ze pujdeme ve Viane (tj. dalsi mestecko jiz na dohled) na neco k jidlu. Ukazuji mu tedy sve puchyre, aby pochopil, ze tato zastavka byla nutna. Holandan tedy mizi v dali sam a my se Zuzkou se horko tezko zvedame k poslednim deseti kilometrum dnesni etapy.

Je teprve kolem poledne. Cas mame i pres nase problemy dobry. Ve Viane potkavame tri Svycary a jednoho Nemce, kteri s nami vecereli predevcirem v Cirauquie, a kteri s nami vcera spali v teze albergue, jen na jinem pokoji. Jeden Svycar z teto ctverice s nami dokonce spal i v penzionu El Peregrino, kde me okradli. Pri pohledu na mou penezenku, z niz tu noc zmizelo 400 EUR, s sebou trhne. Ze by to udelal on? Nevim. Vcera vecer v albergue ke mne prisel, jestli jsem nahodou nevidela jeho ponozku, v El Peregrinu za mnou prisel, jestli jsem nahodou nevidela jeho trenky. No... jeho ponozku bych si teoreticky ze snury na pradlo omylem vzit mohla, ale trenky? No, to asi fakt ne. Jdeme kolem prvniho ryze sportovniho obchodu, ktery jsme zde vubec videly a tento Svycar nas foti pred timto obchodem s sipkou: Santiago: 623 km.

Jdeme dal mesteckem Viana kolem barokni radnice pres moc hezke hlavni namesti. Je tu velmi zivo. Chvili nevime proc, ale pak to uvidime: je tu svatba. Nevidime vsak zenicha ani nevestu. Propletame se ulickami mestecka az dojdeme ke krasnemu kostelu Panny Marie. Je natolik zajimavy, ze ac to u kostelu obvykle nedelame, jdeme dovnitr, a tam uvidime hadejte koho: zenicha a nevestu. Jsou asi v mem veku, mozna trochu starsi, vypadaji moc stastne a zamilovane. Je na ne opravdu nadherny pohled. Kostel Panny Marie je v teto situaci vic nez nadhernou kulisou na jejich svatebnich fotkach.

Vychazime ven a opet potkavame trojici Svycaru a Nemce. Mestskymi hradbami vychazime do poli smer nas dnesni cil - Logroño. Ackoli je mesto na dohled, je to stale cca 10 km (tedy smerovky nas pekne stvou, protoze na jedne je 10 km, ujdeme 2 km, a zase je tam 10 ... jako by cesta byla nekonecna). Jdeme, jdeme a mesto se vubec nepriblizuje. Ach jo. Uz nemuzeme, nohy opravdu hodne boli. Zacina lehce prset, zpocatku je to prijemne osvezeni, po chvili se ale schovavame pod akaty, kterych je kolem cesty plno, a cekame az prestane. Jak tak cekame, jde okolo kluk z USA, ktereho jsme dnes rano potkaly, chvilku za nim jde Ital. Pridavame se k Italovi a ve trech jdeme smer Logroño. Ani Ital uz nema moc sil. Kdyz se Camino de Santiago stoci od mesta a opravdu nechapeme, proc znacky nevedou rovne ale oklikou, zacneme vsichni na toto znaceni nadavat. Nadava i starsi Americanka, kterou dochazime u nadchodu nad dalnici.

Neprsi, ale dalsi dest je na spadnuti. Za teto situace nevim, jestli pisnicka "Obchodnik s destem", kterou Zuzka zacne poustet nahlas ze sveho telefonu, je nyni to prave orechove. Po dalsich cca 5 km, kdy vidime mesto, ale stale v nem nejsme, uz nemuzeme a sedame si na zem na asfaltku, po niz uz pekny kousek jdeme. Miji nas par cyklistu, kteri jedou Camino na kole. Kdyz nas vidi na zemi, zastavuji u nas a ptaji se, jestli jsme v poradku. "Ano, jsme, jen unavene", odpovidame a radeji se zvedame, abychom nedesily dalsi poutniky. Dalsi zastavku delame az ve meste u krematoria (prave u krematoria byly prvni lavicky ve meste) a doufame, ze uvnitr hned tak neskoncime. Konecne prechazime most pres reku Ebro, ktera proteka Logroñem a jdeme k albergue v historicke casti mesta. Uz je plno (a to jsou cca 4 hodiny odpoledne). Hospitalera nam dava typy na nejake pensiony, ale jak slysime, ze jsou pod urovni ulice (tj. sklep jako v El Peregrino), jednim pohledem se Zuzkou se shodneme, ze jdeme do hotelu. Jsme tedy v hotelu F&G v Logroñu, kde jsme hned po prichodu na pokoj usnuly a spaly asi 2 hodiny. Pred chvili jsme si po tydnu daly poradnou veceri a i kdyz to venku zije (sobotni vecer ve Spanelsku), jdeme spat. Niceho jineho ted nejsme schopne. Snad budeme zitra. A pokud ne, pak dame dalsi Hemingwayovu pauzu.

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