Hana Skalická
Grafika
Cirauquie
Čtvrtek,
07.06.2012
111 km

Dnesek byl velmi vydareny. I pocasi nam celkem pralo - polojasno, teplota mezi 20 - 30 stupni. Vychazime z Pamplony.
Ve meste nas zastavuje par veselych duchodcu, kteri nam ukazuji cestu prave v momente, kdy vahame, kudy odbocit. Preji nam Buen Camino a my si rikame, ze by bylo fajn, kdyby takovych, jako jsou oni, bylo vic.

Za mestem prechazime dalnici, kde v dalce vidim El Corte Ingles neboli obchodni dum, takze vzpominam, jak jsem v nem v Sevillle casto nakupovala. Ceka nas stoupani na notoricky znamy Alto del Perdon - tj. musime vystoupat z nadmorske vysky 446 m.n.m. do 770 m.n.m. Jelikoz Zuzka jiz v zacatku stoupani nabrala uctyhodne tempo, nehonim ji a pripojuji se k sympaticke Fince. Potkali jsme se vlastne na chvilku uz vcera rano. Je to hezka blondynka, ktera cestuje sama. Zacit rozhovor nebylo nijak tezke, nebot mame stejny batoh - Osprey Talon 44 l, velikost S/M, Vubec mam pocit, ze tenhle batoh tu ma skoro kazdy - presne jak mi rikal prodavac v Rock Pointu Na Porici: "Vsichni chodi Svatojakubskou pout s Talonem 44". Myslela jsem si, ze si dela srandu, ale pri pohledu na spolupoutniky to asi bude pravda. Zkratka pokud jde o batohy, Osprey Talon jednoznacne vede, stejne jako boty Keen, ktere tu ma kazdy druhy.

Skoro celou dnesni etapu jsem sla s Finkou Bettinou. Ma stejne jmeno jako pes manzelovych rodicu. Ja se zase jmenuji stejne jako jeji sestra. Mysli si, ze jsem ze Svedska. Tak ji samozrejme hned vypravim o svem Erasmu prave ve Svedsku. "A nepletli si Te tam se Svedkou?" "Ano, pletli", odpovidam a vzpominam na sva studia v Lundu a v Kristianstadu. Jak jsem vzdy v obchode zacala mluvit svedsky a kdyz odpoved prodavace byla moc slozita, poprosila jsem, jestli muzeme prejit do anglictiny. "A proc?", ptali se vzdy. A ja na to: "Because I am not Swedish, I do not understand." Nechteli mi to verit.

Po chvili se k nam pridavaji dva Australane ze Sydney - muz a zena. Nasleduje obligatni otazka, odkud jsme. Kdyz odpovim, ze z Ceske republiky, Australan hned zareaguje, ze v Praze jeste nebyl, ale v Bratislave ano. A jednim dechem dodava: "Ale to je Slovenska republika, ne Ceska republika". Takze i Australan z druheho konce sveta vi, ze uz nejsme Ceskoslovensko, stejne jako sympaticky mladik z Ekvadoru, ktery se k nam pripojuje o kus dal. Myslime si, ze Ti dva Australane jsou manzele. Kdyz se jich na to zeptame, zacnou se strasne smat. Znaji se uz 20 let, ale manzele nejsu. Ona v roce 1993 prijela do Spanelska na Camino de Santiago. Zamilovala se do Spanela, ktereho si vzala. Zije s nim v Galicii a zivi se hadejte cim? Dela pruvodkyni po Camino de Santiago. "Takze jsi porad na Caminu?" "Ano, v podstate porad". To je tedy pecka. Tentokrat tu vede skupinu 12 Australanu, ktere se tak stara, ze mohou jit jen s malymi batuzky, protoze velke batohy jim veze dodavka, ktera zaroven zajistuje i obcerstveni. Hm, i tak se da jit Camino. Az mi bude 70, mozna jeji sluzby taky vyuziju. Ted si mi to ale zda "moc mekke".

Ja, Bettina a dva Australane jsme spolecne vysplhali na Alto del Perdon - tj. v prekladu Vysina odpusteni, ktera se tyci nad Pamplonou. Cestu lemuji obrovske vetrniky (vetrne elektrarny). Z vrcholu je videt podhuri Pyreneji, kde jsme byli predevcirem. Na vrcholu nasleduje foceni u skupiny zeleznych poutniku s napisem: "Kde se krizi cesta vetrna s cestou hvezd". Fotim i Polaky, ktere jsem fotila predevcirem u cedule Santiago - 790 km. V pruvodci se docitam, ze tento pamatnik zde vystavela elektrarenska spolecnost.

Nasleduje sestup dolu po chvilemi kamenite a chvilemi prasne ceste, ktera vede mezi loukami a ruznorodymi policky. Uz jdeme zase jen 2 s Bettinu, Australani si na vrcholu davaji obcerstveni z jejich pojizdne dodavky. Najednou slysime strelbu, ptaci z poli rychle odletaji. Mame strach. Asi nejaky myslivec strili na zajice, ale nerady bychom to schytaly i my. Rychle tedy pospichame do "bezpeci" dalsi vesnice - Zariguiegui, kde si v albergue davame obed.

Pri obede nas vyrusi jedna Svycarka, ktera mi rika, ze si me pamatuje z Roncesvalles, kde jsem obsadila jediny internet, co tam byl. Neni moc prijemna, tak jsem rada, ze za chvili s Bettinou odchazime. Potkavame Francouze, ktery s nami predevcirem spal na pokoji. Neumi anglicky, tak se jen zdravime a jdeme dal.

Slunce, ktere bylo az doted spis za mrackem, se nahle rozhodlo nam cestu zneprijemnit a zacalo strasne palit. Po cca 4 km v totalni vyhni dochazime do vesnicky Obanos, kde vezmeme za vdek chladnymi kamennymi lavicemi kostela sv. Jana Krtitele. V chladku kostelnich zdi odpociva i stara znama polska rodinka a doktorka z Jizni Koreje, ktera vedle me sedela pri veceri v Roncesvalles a ktera zanechala prace, aby mohla jit Camino. V Jizni Koreji pry maji jen 2 tydny dovolene.

Jak to tak sleduji, zacinam mit dojem, ze vsichni jsme tu ze stejneho duvodu: usporadat si vlastni zivot, at uz se jedna o lasku ci praci nebo neco jineho.

Po dalsich trech kilometrech dochazime do mestecka Puente la Reina, kde je krasny most z 11. stoleti pres reku Argu. V tomto meste se take schazeji dve Svatojakubske cesty - ta, po niz jdeme my z Roncesvalles a druha z Aragonie na vychode. Zde take konci dnesni etapa podle vetsiny pruvodcu. Bohuzel zde konci i moje dnesni partacka Finka Bettina. V albergue Jakue na me ceka Zuzka a spolecne vyrazime dal. Je jeste malo hodin na to, abychom dnesni putovani ukoncily. Jdeme zvlnenou krajinou mezi poli, loukami, olivovymi haji a vinicemi. Asi po 4 km pohodove cesty nasleduje asi kilometrove stoupani do mestecka Maneru. Zde se chceme ubytovat. Albergue je ale plna, takze musime do dalsi vesnice. Nastesti to je jen 3 km. Slunce opet pali a my stoupame d Cirauqui, v prekladu Hnizdo zmiji. Z dalky to tak opravdu vypada - kamenne mesto na kopci. Z blizka je moc hezke. Mame stesti, v albergue Maralatx maji posledni dve mista - a to ve dvouluzkovem pokoji s vlastni koupelnou. S nami jeste prijizdi jedna cyklistka, ktera uz ma ale smulu a majitelka ji posila do dalsi vesnice (v pripade poslednich mist maji pesaci prednost). Majitelka albergue prichystala vydatnou veceri, muzeme snist i vypit, co se do nas vejde, porad se chodi ptat, jestli nechceme pridat. Sedime u stolu se dvema Nemci a tremi Svycary. Jeden ze Svycaru pred dvema dny spal take v pensionu El Peregrino a poucen mou zkusenosti, ma svou klokanni penezenku s doklady povesenou na krku, stejne jako dnes ja. Jsme unavene, tak ani moc nepopijime a jdeme do naseho pokoje. Snad se po dvou bezesnych nocich snad konecne vyspime.

Začátek stoupání na Alto del Perdon
S železnými poutníky na Alto del Perdon
Na Alto del Perdon s Finkou Bettinou
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