Hana Skalická
Grafika
Larrasona
Úterý,
05.06.2012
58 km

Dnesek zacal moc hezky. Roncesvalles se s nami louci ceduli: "Santiago: 790 km". Zde se nemuzeme nevyfotit. Prichazi polska rodina (rodice a dva kluci) a vzajemne se fotime (fotku prikladame). Vsichni zaciname svizne - lesni cestou mirne z kopce. Dochazime do prvni vesnicky, kde doplnujeme zasoby vody. Jsme trochu zklamane, ze nemaji baleni 0,75 l, protoze jsme vypozorovaly, ze nam staci mit u sebe 1,5 l na osobu - vsude je spousta pramenu, kde lze vodu doplnit. Kupujeme tedy jen 0,5 l, kazda mame 3x 0,5 l, takze mame batoh vzdy nez 0,5 l upijeme trochu nakrivo.

Dale cesta vede pesinkou podel silnice do zajimave vesnicky Espinal - vsechny domecky jsou stejne. Kolem silnice po obou stranach nizky kanalek, jimz proteka voda. Potom cesta pokracuje lesem a ikdyz jsme podle "zjednodusene mapy" mely jit k kopce, je to porad dolu nahoru dolu nahoru dolu nahoru ... Prvni zastavku delame po 12 km ve vesnice Visarret, kde si davame obed. Obsluha neumi zadny cizi jazyk, tak narychlo lovime spanelska slova: "una tortilla, por favor". Tortillu si ze Sevilly pamatuju jako bramborovo vajecnou placku. Dostavam bagetu a v ni vajecno - syrovou omeletu. Inu, treba je tortilla v severnim Spanelsku jina nez v jiznim.

Cesta mi dnes prijde jako kdyz se jde z Krkonos do Jizerek, dokonce i vidim v dalce podobny kopec jako Jested. Dalsim cilem je Zubiri. Ackoli dnesni etapa neni tak narocna jako vcerejsi, zacinam mit krizi. Dnes prevyseni jen 600 m, ale oteplilo se a "Slunce pali jen, a slunce pali jen ...", zni mi v usich pisnicka, kterou si muj deda prehraval jeste na kotoucovem magnetofonu.

Mam krizi. Boli me kotniky, pozdeji i kolena, proste vsechny klouby. Svaly ani moc ne. Delaji se mi prvni puchyre, nastesti jen trosku na maliccich. Horsi je, ze chci zvracet a kazdou chvili mnou v tom horku projede zimnice. Ze by upal? To snad ne, ma prece ksiltovku. Ale taky cerne tricko, a to pritahuje slunce jako magnet. S vypetim vsech sil dochazim do Zubiri. Uz nemuzu. Ale mely bychom dojit jeste do Larrasoni. Posilnuji se v mistnim baru a plna elanu po rozhovorech s par Spanely doslova utikam smer Larrasona.

Vetsi prdel sveta jsme jeste nevidely. Na to, ze v teto vesnici konci denni etapa podle vetsiny pruvodcu, kde nic, tu nic. Je tu jen alberge, a ta uz je plna. Par, ale doslova jen par domu kolem. Jdeme po sipkach Penzion El Peregrino, vidime 1 * (tedy ja vidim hvezdicku, Zuzka vidi slunicko). Je fakt, ze potom, co jsme tam zazily a jak to tam vypadalo, by nemel mit ani jednu hvezdicku.

Otevira nam starsi pan a rika, at se jdeme podivat na pokoj, jestli se nam bude libit. Vede nas do sklepa, coz nas trochu znervoznuje a skutecne se naplnuji nase nejtemnejsi obavy - pokoje pro peregrinos jsou ve sklepe. Presne 2 pokoje po 3 palandach, tedy celkem pro 12 lidi. Chce 15 EUR za noc za osobu, coz je absolutne premrstena cena za neco takoveho. Je tam zima, vse je spinave, no fuj. Jen proto, ze jsme uplne vycerpane, pokoj - tedy spis jednu palandu - prijimame. Na pokoji byl s nami zpocatku jen jeden starsi pan - Francouz, ktery minulou noc spal stejne jako my v Hotelu Roncesvalles. Vsichni tri jsme z toho v soku. V mistnosti je strasna zima, odhadem 15 stupnu. Cely den jsme sly po rozpalenem Spanelsku cca na 40 stupnu a ted tohle. Koupelna je jedna spolecna pro vsechny, a to v mezipatre. Vysvleceme tedy vsechno mokre totalne propocene obleceni a jdeme vykonat aspon zakladni hygienu.

Pradlo nepereme, vlasy nemyjeme, to pocka na zitra do Pamplony. Cheme se najist. Neni ovsem kde. Je tu jen jedna hospoda a tam na uz beznadejne plno. Odchazime tedy zpet k nasemu pensionu. Ptame se pana domaciho, jestli nema neco k jidlu (v pokoji ma napsano, ze prodava bagety). Nema, jidlo doslo, ma jen pivo. Davame si tedy San Miguel. Pri moji otazce, zda-li ma k dispozici internet, se zatvari tak, ze mame dojem, ze si bude muset nejdriv vygooglovat, co to internet vubec je.

Sedime na terase, po chvili se k nam pridava par Nemcu. Za chvili prichazi jeden nemecky Turek, ktery s nami bude sdilet mistnost. Z toho hrozneho pokoje je nadseny, protoze vcera spal v Pyrenejich. Zarezava ale tak nahlas, ze nikdo z nas nemuze spat. Lezim ve spacaku schovana vcetne hlavy, protoze je tu strasna zima. Premyslim, kam jsem dala svoji penezenku - brasnu a la zachranarsky pes. Mam ji na batohu. Bleskne mi hlavou, ze bych si ji mela dat do spacaku, stejne jako mobil, ktery uz ve spacaku mam. Je ale zima, tma, spim na palande nahore, to nez bych slezla, vsechny bych vzbudila. Vzdyt tu jsme jen 4, nic se preci nemuze stat, vedle v pokoji jsou taky jen peregrinos. Tohle vsechno se mi honi hlavou, ale nenajdu silu vstat a dojit si pro penezenku. A vzhledem k tomu, co se dozvim rano (bude v dalsi kapitole) pro me plyne pouceni: "Nasleduj sve instinkty."

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