Hana Skalická
Grafika
Saint Jean Pied de Port
Neděle,
03.06.2012

Probouzime se spontanne cca v 7.30 h a celkem se nam ulevi, kdyz zjistime, ze kohout zakokrha az za hodinu (a to opravdu kohout - z meho mobilu, kde je nahran hlas skutecneho kohouta). Zdalo se mi o praci. Hm... s pomyslenim na to, ze "kdyz nekde spite prvni noc, sen se vam splni", nemam nejlepsi vyhlidky, pokud takoveto sny budou pokracovat.

Jelikoz venku leje jako z konve a ochladilo se asi na 15 stupnu, mame prvni dilema - jak se dostat na nadrazi. Jestli vytahnout ponco a jit pesky a nebo si vzit taxika. Po chvilce zavahani vytahuji ponco, Zuzka plastenku na batoh a kapucu. Je to celkem ok, za chvili prichazime k metru. Jezdi zde vlaky bez ridice. Tlacime se do prvniho vagonu uplne dopredu, abychom videli, jak to v Praze asi vidi strojvudci. To by se Ti, Honzi, libilo. Parada, i ja jsem nadsena. Tunel je lehce osviceny, krasne jsou videt koleje. Najednou vjizdime na krizovatku, kde se koleje roztrojuji. Nas vlak si vybira zlatou stredni cestu, abychom po chvili zastavili v prestupni stanici Jean-Joures. Stanice je preplnena lidmi - asi jako Muzem nebo Mustek u nas. Jejda, abychom mohli nastoupit do druheho vlaku, ktery nas doveze na nadrazi La Gare, musime projit dalsim turniketem. Nastesti jsme si koupili spravny listek a turniket se zelene rozsviti a pousti nas dal.

Ani na nadrazi nejsou vuci cizincum moc vlidni, vsechny napisy jsou jen francouzsky. Jediny anglicky napis je: "The counter is closed. Thank you for your understanding". No to by pri pohledu na zavrenou prepazku fakt nenapadlo, rikam si. Jeste, ze Zuzka mluvi francouzsky. Kupujeme Billet a composter avant l`acces au train, tarif normal, za 42,40 EUR na osobu. Na to, jak ten vlak potom vypadal, je to strasna palka. Nejdrive jedeme Intercite do Bayonne. Intercite vsak vypada jak stare vlakove soupravy u nas. Zadne TGV. A to s nim pojedeme cele 3,5 h. Pak jeste prestup na vlak do Saint Jean.

Ve vlaku sedime v kupe pro 8 lidi 4 - my dve a dva kluci Francouzi. Prichazi pruvodci a s prekvapenim zjistuji, ze nam cvaka listek klestickami, ktere v listku udelaji kulatou dirku. Proste presne tou stipackou, kterou mi tata dal, kdyz jsem byla mala a hrala si na pruvodci. Vzpominam, jak jsme vzdycky v sobotu dopoledne spolu jezdili vlaky a svou pruvodcovskou vybavicku jsem pochopitelne nosila sebou. Jednou jsem stala na peronu a tata rikal: "Je zelena. Zvedni placacku, at vlak muze jet." Ale vzdyt ja nejsem vypravci, vlak asi nepojede, kdyz placacku zvednu ja, bezelo mi tenkrat hlavou. "Ale pojede, jen to zkus". Opatrne zvedam placacku a vlak se rozjizdi. Nestacim se divit, skacu radosti. Az po letech jsem zjistila, jak to tenkrat tata udelal. Domluvil se s vypravcim, ktery stal za mnou a ja jsem zvedla placacku presne v ten okamzik, jako on :-)

Ale ted jsme ve Francii, z okna vidime zelenou krajinu, chvilemi hory. Nasi spolucestujici vystupuji v Lources a my zustavame v kupe samy. Koleje vedou kolem reky Gave de Pau, je divocejsi, s krasne modrou vodou. Rozvijime debatu, jestli bychom do ni skocily pro batoh, kdyby nam tam spadl podobne jako Tomovi ve filmu The Way. Jo, rikam ja. Ne, rika Zuzka. Tak snad takova situace nenastane.

Konecne zastavujeme v Bayonne. Vystupujeme a hledame WC. 2x obejdeme cele nadrazi nez nam dojde, ze je zavreno. Mame asi hodinku na prestup. Nadrazi male, kde nic tu nic, tak se jdeme projit. Vlastne poprve natezko. Prochazime pres dve ospala namesticka, vsude zavreno. Jdeme pres reku Gave de Pau, ktera zde v Bayonne nabyla obrich rozmeru. Premyslim, jestli Dunaj v Bratislave je sirsi nebo ne. Po chvili usedame na lavicce vedle reky, sledujeme ospale mestecko, svacime. Vsude samy Citroen nebo Peugeot, jako ostatne i vcera. Inu, co jineho bychom taky ve Francii mohly cekat :-)

Vedle na lavicku usedaji 2 Francouzi, asi 60 leti manzele. Maji batohy dokonce uz i s musli - symbolem poutniku. Nesmele se pozorujeme. "Kdyz to ujdou oni, tak to preci ujdeme i my", rika Zuzka. "Jo, jo, Zuzi, urcite to ujdeme, otazka jen je, jak rychle". Po chvili se vracime zpet na nadrazi. Vlak se nam tentokrat moc libi, je to neco jako nas Regio Jet. Hezky cisty vlacek motoracek. Libi se nam dokonce natolik, ze premyslime, jestli nejsme v prvni tride. Po chvili se nas mala Japonka s velkym batohem pta na totez. A muz sedici opodal s 5 l barelem vody a poutnickym batohem odpovida, ze ne a ze mame hezka mista, tak at zustaneme sedet.

Cesta se klikati, krajina meni raz, vjizdime do hor. Pastevecke louky i hluboka udoli, drava reka podle trati. Vsude spousta akatu. Trochu mi to pripomina Krkonose, pomyslim si pri pohledu na kopec - doslova Kotel nad Rokytnici nad Jizerou. Asi po hodine a pul prijizdime do Saint Jean Pied de Port. Z vlaku se vyvali asi 40 - 50 poutniku a vsichni miri k poutnicke kancelari. V kancelari je cca 6 starsich Francouzu - dobrovolniku, kteri nam davaji rady na cestu, vcetne seznamu vsech refuges az do Santiaga, mapy na prvni etapu a mapku Saint Jean. Rady do zivota nam udili starsi deda, a to hned vsem English speaking people v mistnosti - tj. mne, Zuzce a nejakemu klukovi z Jamajky. A samozrejme dostavame (tedy za 1 EUR) "Carnet de pelerin de Saint-Jacques" - "Credencial del Peregrino", tj. neco jako pas poutnika, do nehoz budeme dostavat razitka cestou, abychom pak na konci dostali compostelu.

Jdeme se ubytovat do La Maison E. Bernatt a pote vyrazime sehnat neco k snedku na zitrek (kdyz pry cestou zitra nejsou zadne obcerstvovaci stanice) a na veceri. Trvalo nam hodinu, nez jsme nasli otevrenou restauraci. No jo, Francie v nedeli vecer. Vse predrazene, jidlo opravdu ble ble (a to nebylo Bleu jako v Toulouse). Snime to jen proto, ze mame strasny hlad.

Cestou kolem kostela zapalujeme kazda jednu svicku - pry kdyz si ji zapalime primo v kostele v Saint Jean, splni se nam prani. Chvili sedime na kostelni lavici a divame se na nase nevyslovene prani, v ocich vyraz kez by ... kostel pusobi magicky, a to nejsem verici. Jdu se jeste trochu projit a cestou kolem albergue slysim zpev. Trochu zalituji, ze spime v penzionu, ale co, tak snad albergue bude priste. Usiname vycerpane a s pranim kez by na rtech.

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